How apparel sampling works — and what it costs
A sample is the cheapest place to find a mistake. Every change made at sample stage costs a fraction of the same change after bulk. This guide walks through how sampling works with a garment factory and what you are paying for.
Updated · 4 min read
What a sample is for
A sample is a physical version of your garment made before bulk production. It answers three questions:
- Did the factory understand the brief? Fit, construction, fabric and decoration as you described them.
- Does the product work? It fits real bodies, survives washing, and looks right in person.
- What exactly will bulk look like? The approved sample becomes the standard the bulk order is checked against.
Types of samples you may hear about
Different factories use different names, but the stages are broadly similar:
- Proto (first) sample: the first interpretation of your design. Often made in available fabric to check shape and construction.
- Fit sample: made to check measurements on a person or form. You may need more than one round.
- Salesman / photo sample: made in the right colours to photograph, show buyers or open pre-orders.
- Pre-production (PP) sample: made in the actual bulk fabric and trims, with final decoration. This is the one you sign off.
- Top-of-production (TOP) sample: pulled from the start of bulk to confirm the line matches the approved sample.
For a small first order you will not necessarily go through every stage. Often one or two rounds of a proto/fit sample, then a final approved sample, is enough for simple styles such as T-shirts and hoodies.
What to send the factory
The more complete the brief, the fewer rounds you need:
- A tech pack, or a reference garment, or clear photos with a measurement chart
- Fabric description: type, colour, and weight if you know it (see our fabric and GSM guide)
- Artwork files for printing or embroidery, with size in centimetres and position measured from a fixed point such as the collar seam
- Label and packaging requirements
- The size you want sampled (usually your base size, e.g. M)
- Quantity you plan for bulk and the destination, so the factory can quote both
How the process runs
- Inquiry and quote. You send the brief; the factory confirms what it can do and quotes. At Anlai we quote within 24 hours, and you can share a target price for us to confirm.
- Pattern. The pattern room drafts or adjusts a pattern from your tech pack or reference garment.
- Material. Fabric and trims are sourced (full package) or received from you (CMT).
- Sewing and decoration. The sample is cut, sewn, printed or embroidered, pressed and checked.
- Shipping. The sample is sent to you. At Anlai samples typically ship internationally in about one week.
- Your review. You test it and send comments.
- Revision or approval. Changes go into a revised sample, or you approve and move to bulk.
How to review a sample properly
Do not just look at it on a hanger. Check:
- Fit: try it on the people you are designing for. Measure key points (chest, length, sleeve, shoulder) against your spec and note the difference in centimetres.
- Wash: wash and dry it the way your customers will. Re-measure for shrinkage and check twisting of side seams, print cracking and colour change.
- Construction: seams, stitching density, neckline recovery, cuff and hem finish.
- Decoration: colour accuracy of print and thread, position, and size.
- Labels and packaging: text, placement and legibility.
Write feedback as specific instructions — “increase body length by 2 cm at size M” rather than “a bit longer”. Photos with a tape measure in frame help the pattern room.
What drives sample cost
Sample prices vary widely between factories and styles. General factors include:
- Complexity: a basic tee is quicker to pattern and sew than a multi-panel hoodie with zips and pockets.
- Fabric availability: stock fabric is simpler than dyeing or developing a special fabric just for the sample.
- Decoration: setting up a print screen or digitising an embroidery file has a fixed cost even for one piece.
- Number of rounds: each revision is more pattern and sewing time.
- Shipping: international express courier for a sample can cost as much as the sample itself, depending on destination and weight.
How sample fees are usually handled
Many factories charge a sample fee and credit it against the bulk order. At Anlai the sample fee is US$50, and it is waived or reduced once a bulk order goes ahead. Ask any factory upfront whether the fee covers shipping, how many revision rounds are included, and whether decoration set-up is charged separately.
After approval
Once you approve the sample:
- Keep one approved sample and ask the factory to keep its twin; both sides check bulk against it.
- Confirm in writing the final quantities per colour and size, the packing instructions and the delivery date.
- Agree the bulk lead time per order — it depends on quantity, complexity and schedule, so get the date confirmed rather than assumed.
- Confirm payment terms. At Anlai, orders above US$200 are paid through a third-party payment platform before production.
Common sampling mistakes
- Approving from photos alone when fit matters.
- Changing fabric after sample approval, then expecting bulk to match the sample.
- Sending low-resolution artwork and expecting a crisp print.
- Skipping the wash test.
- Not recording which sample was approved.
Ready to sample? Send your style through the contact page, or see what we make for T-shirts and hoodies.